Art 150 Beginning Ceramics - Glazing

GLAZE

Glaze is a mixture of minerals and water, applied to the bisque fired clay form, that melt to form a glassy coating, with a variety of color and surface qualities.

STEPS IN GLAZING

   1.      Clean the bisque. Sponge off with a damp, not wet, sponge.

   2.      Stir the glaze, making sure that it is the correct thickness. 
             If you have any questions, check with your instructor.

  3.      Pour the glaze inside, unless you are using dipping tongs and intend              to  glaze the whole thing at once. Turn the piece as you pour the glaze out.

   4.      Dip the form, upside-down, into the glaze. Glaze coating should 
            be  about the thickness of a postcard to a dime. Too thin or too 
            thick an application may ruin your piece and/or the kiln shelf.

   5.      Allow the glaze to dry before handling it.

   6.      Clean the bottom of your piece. It should be free of glaze 1/4 of an inch     
             from the bottom.

   7.      Please be careful not to contaminate any of the glaze materials.

   8.      Practice safe glazing: NO EATING OR DRINKING IN THE GLAZE  
             AREA.

   9.      Take notes on your glazing so that you know what you have 
             done after the form has been fired.

10.      Put your completed forms outside on the appropriate 
            shelves. (To be glaze fired)

DECORATIVE TECHNIQUES

   1.   Double dipping-   dipping the form in two different glazes. 
           May or may not overlap.

   2.    Wax resist-   wax is applied to the raw glaze coating. Oxides 
          or a second glaze are applied over the glazed and  waxed surface.

   3.    Oxide brushwork-   oxides are applied to the raw glaze coating.

GLAZES

           CELADON-         translucent, shiny, jade green glaze. Works with iron and 
                                        cobalt wash.

           STONY WHITE-  mottled mat glaze; creamy white in color. 
                                          Works well with oxides and slips.         

           CLEAR-                shiny, transparent glaze. Turns gray over
                                          Long Beach clay.

           HEAVY IRON-      shiny, brown-black glaze. Breaks brown over texture.
                                         Rutile wash turns gold over this glaze. Runny if thick.

           BLUE MOON-      blue-gray mat. Greens and browns if applied thin.                                          Very opaque.

           TENMOKU-         very similar to Heavy Iron, only more brown.

           SHINO-                shiny tan to orange glaze. Crawls when thick
                                         creating a very interesting texture.

           DIMESTORE-     clean, shiny, opaque white glaze. Excellent for the 
                                        interiors of functional forms. Works well with all 
                                        oxides. Do not use with slips.

           PUMPKIN-           satin mat. Brown to orange, depending on thickness.
                                        Runny if thick.

           RUTILE PINK-      shiny glaze, iridescent blue on Long Beach Clay,
                                         pinkish on B-Mix. Runny if thick. Do not double dip!

OXIDE WASHES

The resulting color will depend on the glaze to which the wash is applied. Consult the glaze samples or your instructor.

            COBALT-      blue to lavender

            COPPER-     green, red, metallic when thick

            IRON-             browns and greens

            RUTILE-        golds, rough if applied too thick

            BLACK -       black

SLIPS

Apply to plastic or leatherhard clay only. Changes the color and texture of the clay surface. Consult the glaze samples or your instructor.

BLACK, BLUE, BLUE-GREEN, COPPER (GREEN), IRON (BROWN), PINK, WHITE.