Discover the Native Plant Sanctuary

About Native & Non-native Plants

A native plant has evolved and grown naturally in a specific region or ecosystem for hundreds or thousands of years. Native plants are part of the balance of nature and are essential to the health of local ecosystems. Native insects and animals and other native plants have evolved to be in relationship with one another.

Plants that have been introduced intentionally or accidentally by humans. Non-native plants are those that did not evolved in this geographic location. These plants have not evolved to be in relationship with native plants, animals and insects and disrupt the balance of nature.

Some plants were brought accidentally when people carried seeds unknowingly on their clothing and shoes. Others were brought intentionally for horticultural (ornamental plants) or agricultural reasons (for food for humans or livestock.

Non-native plants can become invasive and displace native species. Invasive plants can out-compete native species for space, and other resources like nutrients and water, and harm the health of the ecosystem. Additionally, some non-native plants are allelopathic, meaning they contain chemicals that prevent other plants from growing (Black mustard, pampas grass, ice plant, Brazilian pepper trees). Because non-native plants are not adapted to Southern California’s drier climate, these plants often die and remain on the landscape as a fire hazard.

For example, a common invasive non-native (invasive means a non-native plant that grows quickly, spreads, and displaces other plants) is black mustard. This plant is an annual, meaning like a wildflower, it pops up in the spring after winter rains, and dies off in the summer and fall. It spread rapidly thanks to the presence of its non-native pollinator companion, the European honey bee. It likes to grow in disturbed soils so you will see it along road sides, hiking trails, and in the urban-wildland interface where people have build homes or recreate in wildland areas.

If you see black mustard, cut it or pull it and dispose of it in a contractor’s trash bag, allow it to solarize in the sun, and dump it in the trash. DO NOT put invasive plants in your green bin because this can transplant the problem to another place.

2024 was the world’s hottest year on record so far. The past decade has also been the hottest decade on record so far. We know that increased global average temperatures produce more extreme weather events such as longer and more intense droughts, larger hurricanes from warming oceans, and sea level rise from melting polar ice caps. These conditions impact humans by causing displacement as people flee disasters, negatively impacting food production and increasing hunger, increasing health risks such as malaria as the warm conditions needed for the disease to spread and thrive grow. These realities only increase the risk of war and humanitarian crises globally.

It is estimated that nature-based climate solutions can account for 30% of the carbon sequestration needed to limit warming to 3.6˚F (2°C) by the end of the century. Restoring native plant communities could absorb enough carbon to compensate for more than 20% of U.S. greenhouse emissions.

By providing shade and releasing moisture into the air, these plants can reduce the urban heat island effect, meaning lower temperatures around your home and less energy spent on air conditioning, especially when compared to artificial turf. Studies have shown that artificial turf can reach temperatures up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit on hot days. Additionally, native plants absorb and filter stormwater, decreasing the risk of flooding and further minimizing the amount of pollutants reaching our waterways.

As extreme weather events are becoming more frequent, here in SoCal that means longer droughts, periods of intense rain, and year-round fire risk. With less rainfall, it becomes that much more important that we make sure as much water can be stored in the soil and feed our underground aquifers. Native plants tend to have very deep roots.

Native grasses are C4 plants, (C4 carbon fixation or the Hatch–Slack pathway is one of three known photosynthetic processes of carbon fixation in plants) meaning they suck up more carbon dioxide and require less water than other plants. They represent only 5% of the Earth's biomass, but account for 20-30% of CO2 fixation. Just think about the opportunity there. Replacing our lawns with diverse grasslands featuring native grasses will create a more authentic, natural American landscape that combats climate change and provides shelter and food for songbirds and other small mammals even through winter months. The continental U.S. lost a staggering 150 million acres of habitat and farmland to urban sprawl, and that trend isn’t slowing. The modern obsession with highly manicured “perfect” lawns alone has created a green, monoculture carpet across the country that covers over 40 million acres. Native plants use up to 85% less water than traditional landscaping. Some that are easy to grow from seed and are local include purple three awn, foothill needlegrass, deer grass, and California brome.

Planted in your home or garden, natives establish a deep root system, allowing for water to refresh our groundwater supplies. These deep roots also help prevent soil erosion, which is a significant benefit for areas prone to landslides or heavy rains.

Healthy, biodiverse ecosystems are more resilient to climate change impacts. Properly maintaining your native garden can even increase your home's fire tolerance. Well-maintained and hydrated native plants can hold water in their leaves and stems for long durations, making them difficult to burn. Invasive grasses and palms aren’t able to do this, and thus are more flammable, becoming fuel during wildfires.

California native plants have also co-evolved with fire. Many native plants are excellent choices to plant around the perimeter of a property to act as a buffer for fire. Laurel sumac whose shiny leaves help resist fire and have low-flammability. Lemonade berry is a thick shrub with thick green leaves that retain moisture which makes it less likely to catch fire. Quail bush also doesn’t catch fire and instead simply melts.

Naturally dense native plant communities can also buffer severe storms. Roots and shoots absorb energy from wind and water, lessening storm strength and damage.
One of the impacts of capitalist-driven climate change is biodiversity loss. Just as human communities’ ability to thrive is impeded by rising global temperatures and extreme weather events, our relatives in the animal kingdom, insect world, and beyond, are finding it more difficult to exist. Here are some ways that biodiversity is negatively impacted by the climate crisis.

Range shifts: As temperatures rise, many species are moving to higher altitudes or latitudes to find suitable habitats, impacting ecosystem dynamics.

Phenological Shifts: Changing climate patterns can disrupt the timing of life cycles (e.g., flowering, migration) causing mismatches between species that depend on each other.

Impact on Food Webs: Disruptions in species populations due to climate change can cascade through food webs, affecting entire ecosystems.

Plants form the foundation of the habitat for many different species of insects. In turn, these support other animals and thus, our environment in general. When the plants and insects that form the base of our wild food chain are present in higher numbers, and when shelter and habitat are better connected across the landscape, wildlife populations are more resilient to disruptions like fires or major storms.

That native plants are better for insects has been demonstrated by numerous studies. In California’s Bay Area, for example, surveys done by Gordon Frankie of UC Berkeley in urban and suburban gardens found that native flowers supported more species and larger numbers of bees than non-native plants.

Native Plants that have the greatest benefit for biodiversity are called keystone species. Keystone plants are native plants critical to the food web and necessary for many wildlife species to complete their life cycle. Without keystone plants in the landscape, butterflies, native bees, and birds will not thrive. 96% of our terrestrial birds rely on insects supported by keystone plants.

Native plants also moderate local climates. The water that a single tree releases daily into its surroundings has a cooling effect equivalent to two domestic air conditioners. Trees also create shade, lowering local temperatures and reducing energy use and emissions from building cooling.

By greening and transforming our landscapes, we can absorb carbon, reduce urban temperatures, provide habitat that supports pollinators and many other animals, create connections between larger patches of habitat that will allow pollinators to move through our communities—and native plants are the best way to do this. In addition to supporting a greater diversity and abundance of bees, and vastly more species of butterfly and moth caterpillars, native plants are typically better adapted to local conditions, making them easier to grow and more likely to survive.

It's simple, really: If climate change is caused by plants being metabolized into gasses, converting more gasses to plants is one way to reverse that process.

Southern California’s soils are typically low in nutrients and often dry. Native plants have adapted to these conditions over thousands of years, meaning they don't need nutrient boosts from fertilizers. Since native plants don’t need extra help, you save money on fertilizers and pesticides, and you prevent harmful chemicals from ending up in waterways like the LA River, Dominguez Channel, San Gabriel River or Compton Creek!

How to Start

Start small: Find a section of your yard that is a manageable size for you to begin. You don’t want to take on too much and risk becoming frustrated with the results since you’re still learning.

Start local: While California has many beautiful and interesting plants (6,500+!) regionally local native plants are the best option for climate resilience. These are the plants that local wildlife have evolved to be in relationship with and are best suited for your climate. Use Calscape.org and enter your zip code to see a list of plants that belong in your area.

Decolonize your mind: The modern approach to plants has historically been from an ego-centric perspective. We tend to think about plants as being for our aesthetic pleasure. While there is nothing wrong with appreciating a plant’s natural beauty, understanding plants as being in relationship with the ecosystem is the most balanced way to view plants.

Plan for the future: Consider the eventual size and needs of the plants you are considering putting in your space. How big and wide will they grow? How much sun or water do they need? Is your site a good fit for the plants needs?

Consider Human Needs: Would you like to use the plants for food or medicine? Do you need the plant to act as a privacy hedge? Will small children be interacting with the plant? Think deeply about all the ways you and others will be in relationship with the plant(s) in order to make the best plant selections.

Buy locally grown plants: Locally grown plants are best suited for your local climate. We recommend Tree of Life, Californica Nursery, Artemisia Nursery, and soon, OUR nursery! Inspect the root systems for disease ad health.

Be patient: A common refrain for California native plant growers is that the plants tend to “sleep” the first year, “creep” the second year, and “leap” the third year. Plants are establishing their roots early on so you may not see much growth above ground. If you have been careful about selecting locally regional plants, trust in the process!

  1. Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the container your plant comes in. We recommend a drain spade for digging holes.
  2. Fill the hole with water at least once (more is better) and wait for it to drain. This may take some time depending on the soil quality and soil type.
  3. Return some soil to the hole so that your plant is level with the surrounding ground.
  4. Gently squeeze the container, moving your hands around the pot slowly loosening the soil.
  5. Flip the pot upside down while holding the plant at the base where the soil meets the plant. The pot should slide off. If it doesn’t repeat step 4.
  6. Place the plant and all of it’s soil in the hole so that the soil of the plant is level with the surrounding ground.
  7. Backfill the hole with the soil you previously removed in step 1.
  8. Press down on the soil and the root system to ensure stability and level soil.
  9. Create an irrigation bern by forming a depression of a ring in the soil around the root system of the plant as a water basin.
  10. Water the basin until it’s filled.
  11. Continue watering the plant until the basin is filled 2-3 times for the first 6 weeks, keeping the root ball moist, but not soggy.
  12. During weeks 6-12 water once a week or as needed, depending on rainfall.
  13. After the first three months, start less frequent, but deeper watering. Make sure the root ball is only slightly moist before each new deep watering, usually every 2-3 weeks if there’s no rain. Then give it a good soaking. During the rainy season, you can usually rely mostly or entirely on natural rainfall.